Smoke & Mirrors

I remember being around 12 when it occurred to me that all my favorite models had one thing in common - cigarettes. It seemed at the time like an odd shared habit given the little I knew about cigarettes themselves but I couldn't help but notice that in every other runway picture or behind the scenes photograph the models were standing around sipping champagne and puffing on Marlboros. The images were so prevalent that I began to merely consider smoking to be one of those things models did - much like wearing fancy clothes or knowing how to walk in 6 inch heels. It was just part of their job.

It wasn't until a year or so later that I learned models use cigarettes to avoid getting hungry and suddenly it made sense.


Snejana Onopka lights up

This week The New York Times has an article Still Too Thin, and Getting Younger on the rampant use of cigarettes and other appetite suppressants along with the continuously decreasing age of fashion models. Its a sobering (and depressing) look into the tactics girls use to keep themselves waifish. The facts are unsurprising yet still manage to be staggering - a few choice excerpts:

There, one might be startled to find, scattered on the makeup table alongside the iPod and the Motorola SLVR (a device that electronics blogs approvingly call the anorexic phone), other currently common tools of the trade like Vicodin, clenbuterol and Marlboro Lights.

Vicodin, of course, is the prescription painkiller Eminem liked so much he immortalized it on “The Slim Shady LP,” and a drug better appreciated in the fashion business for its appetite-suppressing powers than for the truly unappetizing truth that it is only slightly less addictive than heroin. Clenbuterol is a steroid used by athletes, horse trainers and models to reduce body fat (one study of clenbuterol in horses showed significant weight reduction in a matter of weeks). “A lot of girls are using it now to keep their weight down,” said Kelly Cutrone, the founder of People’s Revolution, a fashion production company.

The one thing you will never hear anyone utter a peep of concern about when it comes to models is smoking. Yet it’s pretty common knowledge that they smoke more than long-haul truckers, road workers or Sylvia Sidney in “Beetlejuice.” The blue-collar reference here is intentional since, despite its putative glamour, a modeling gig is more like that of a supermarket checker than one would imagine. Both draw on a work force that tends to be uneducated and young.

. . .

No matter where, fashion-show readying areas all seem subject to local fire-safety standards, which designers observe by posting No Smoking signs prominently above the communal ashtray. Models smoke every place and all the time, in a nimbus of backstage hairspray, in alleyways at the rare shows (Prada, Bottega Veneta) whose designers won’t permit smoking indoors. They smoke at smart fashion parties and in the little Smart cars their agencies use to ferry them from one casting to the next. They smoke in a number of surprisingly tolerant restaurants here, of course, because the maître d’ has not been born who would tell the gorgeously sultry 18-year-old Australian Catherine McNeil to stamp out her cigarette.

. . .

It happens that there’s a sinister circularity in this process. Killing appetite is one reason people reach for a Marlboro. And there is no question that dieting is an occupational necessity for the girls paid to make the refined but punishingly slim clothes that Raf Simons showed in his much-lauded Jil Sander show on Tuesday (brave and courageous were words that were used a lot) look chic and also humanly feasible to wear.

It is also true that smoking to lose weight only leads to more smoking. Or at least that is what animal studies linking food deprivation to the use of stimulants have found. When the fashion community is used to its next fit of moral dudgeon and wakes up again to the problems of underweight girls and the largely hidden abuse of things like clenbuterol, it will be worth reminding them that there is good science demonstrating that when you starve an animal, you make it a lot more vulnerable to self-abuse.

I think this last bit really hits the nail on the head. The standards that many of these girls are place under are in unrealistic and in general unhealthy and given the relative ages of models (the article mentions girls as young as 12) its easy to see how very vulnerable they can be to eating disorders and/or drug use. Take a girl away from her family, dump her in a strange city or country and tell her that her job is dependent only on her ability to fit into clothing small enough to be sold at Baby Gap and its going to create problems. End of story.

As informative as this piece was it didn't seem to offer any solutions and lets face it the fashion world isn't exactly looking for them either. Things are still business as usual. Now depending on your views on cigarettes you may or may not feel that models smoking is a big deal but I think we can all agree that the use of cigarettes in place of food is a bad thing, not to mention the use of steroids and prescription drugs.

As always I ask you to tell me how this makes you feel - right now I can't help but feel frustration. After all the talk of model regulations it seems nothing has changed at all.

Thanks to Harini for linking me to this article and reminding me to check my beloved Thursday Styles

A Leg Up: Fall's Wide Leg Pants

And were back! TFFF is fresh from vacation with a glow in our cheeks and our 100th post!

Of course now that we are back we must bid adieu to one of last years trademark trends.

Goodbye skinny denim! We hardly knew ye!

The time has come to usher in a new (new-old anyway) silohuette and while some of us are ecstatic about this development there are others who are clutching their drainpipe jeans in horror at the very prospect of wide leg pants. Its not hard to understand why - for every vision of Kate Hepburn in perfect high waisted trousers there is another equally prevalent image of shapeless baggy pants with legs so big they look like skirts. Wide legs pants can look chic just as easily as they can look bad so its important to know just how to wear this trend.


The Late Great Katherine Hepburn and the pants she made famous


Fit
The most important thing with wide legs (and with everything else for that matter) is fit. You want your pants to fit perfectly. Never too wide and never too tight. The perfect wide legs will be roomy throughout the entire leg.


Wide Legs on the Runway at Givenchy, Proenza & Phillip Lim

Note how the pants are full throughout the entire leg - if a pair of pants nips in at the thigh too much or is tight in general just wont look right. Form fitted is not the look were going for with these. Granted no one wants the very baggy "these pants are two sizes too big" look either so pay attention to how the pants skim over your body.

Length
Different strokes for different folks. I am an advocate of having just a little extra length on your wide leg pants incase you wish to wear heels. However no one wants to drown in excess fabric. If you are shorter your pants need to be hemmed accordingly, if you are taller they need to be extended accordingly. With wide leg pants slight differences in pant length are very apparent so its good to be conscious of these subtle differences.

Wide legs themselves are coming in different lengths as well now - there are of course wide leg capris and even shorts but the same rules apply. Make sure to try them on before buying. Too short on a wide leg can look like you've unintentionally worn high waters.

Proportions
I say this about everything but proportion is so important. Wide leg pants require the same amount of attention paid to proportion as skinny jeans do. If you're going for a wide leg its best to pair it with a smaller top. A flowing tunic top can look good as well but make sure its belted or cinched at the waist. Pairing a large top with large bottoms can be too much. Since the pants are already baggy its good to structure them with a fitted top or jacket.

Waist
High waists. Oh high waists. I'll be the first to admit they look cool. There is something very 1970s retro about a pair of pants with wide legs and a high waist there is no denying the popularity of this trend but buyer beware the trend is not particularly flattering. Be sure not to go too high - anything that cuts you off right under the boob are is almost guaranteed to look bad. And stick to darker colors - high waisted pants are already tricky and a dark color just makes things automatically flattering.

Accessorizing
Heels. Heels. Heels. I don't now how many times I have to say it but heels. If you are shorter (or even if you're not) heels will elongate your frame and make your wide leg pants look better. Try a great pair or platforms (more on those later this week) and I guarantee you wont regret it.

Since the waist is the focus of your outfit you'll want to invest in a good belt - something more interesting than the usual basic black.

So how do you feel about the resurgence of the wide leg? Will you be wearing this trend or is it something you'll skip? I'm quite excited for wide legs to be honest - even the high waist variety. There is something a little ladylike about the whole trend that appeals to me - I've already gotten a couple pairs now I just need this weather to cool down so I can wear them.

The Story So Far

Looks from (top row) John Rocha's S/S 08 catwalk show at the BFC tent and (bottom row) Basso & Brooke's S/S 08 catwalk show at the Louise T Blouin Institute, at London Fashion Week.

Yesterday's shows included the long-established John Rocha, print specialists Basso & Brooke, and today's uber-boring Nicole Farhi.

What's black and white and bored all over? John Rocha's S/S 2008 show. In contrast to my trumpeting in the last post of the return of colour, Rocha showed a structurally dull collection barely enlivened with the few dashes of colour on show. The predominant palette of black, grey, linen and cream might have worked on outlandish or desirable pieces, but a basic black cotton shift is only really desirable when it's on sale at H&M for a tenner. The one high point came in the form of a dark turquoise liquid leather coat (shown above), which whilst totally covetable wasn't gasp-out-loud waiting-list-worthy.

Basso & Brooke more than made up for the disappointments earlier in the day, despite forcing us to trek from sunny South Kensington out to an industrial estate in the middle of nowhere (Shepherd's Bush). A sunny weekend had given way to freezing cold weather and the crowd outside the show was furious to be kept waiting in the street when they could have been safe in the confines of the BFC tent, but those of us lucky enough to score front row seats (i.e., me) were ushered into the inner sanctum straight away to pounce on our goodie bags. Thanks to L'Oreal I'm now the proud owner of 2 eyeshadows, 2 lipsticks, the entire De-maq Expert range, Elnett hairspray, spray-on fake tan and some sort of weirdo collagen wrinkle filler. Sometimes dashing across London on three different buses in four inch heels is totally worth it...

The goodies put everyone in the mood to be nice about the collection, but bribery was unnecessary: it was stellar. Highly structured cocktail dresses with boning and stiffened fabrics were overlaid with waves of chiffon, folded to flatter, all in Basso & Brooke's signature prints. Floor-length competed with cocktail competed with sporty competed with body-con: the bubble hem seen at the previous day's Eley Kishimoto show popped up again, and the sporty-style hooded and drawstringed styles were again in evidence.

Sadly Nicole Farhi's show (which finished barely an hour ago -- if this computer were a press this entry would be hot off it) could be summed up in far fewer words: "blah". Ply us with champagne and canapes beforehand all you like Farhi, nothing will get me drunk enough to think that cheap high street-style gap-year-in-India cotton prints on elasticated dresses are a good idea. Photos not yet up but after tomorrow's shows I may post a couple.

London Calling!

As autumn rolls around, so do Spring Summer fashion shows, designed to taunt you with lovely summery clothes that you won't be able to buy or wear for another six months. Luckily at London Fashion Week on Saturday Ben de Lisi was on hand to show a series of dresses no-one in their right mind would lust after, thus sparing the fashion pack from dramatic sighs and desperate attempts at time travel. Instead we sat happy in the knowledge that we have a full season of delicious winter tailoring ahead, all dark looks and 1940s styles, before we have to contend with what next spring apparently has to offer.

From just two shows seen so far -- Ben de Lisi and Eley Kishimoto, it seems safe to say that colour is back, in a big way. You know how the fall fashion issues of all the glossies triumphantly trumpeted the return to tailoring and an end to oversized smocks and babydoll dresses, no more footless tights and back to body con? Yeah, that's not going to last long -- the one saving grace of the return of the smock / tunic is that for next year, a touch of body con has carried over, so we're no longer looking at shapeless sack dresses: clever details in the cut, together with subtle pleats or darts, give a waist and silhouette to even the most oversized dress.

Okay, so spring and summer have always been about dresses anyway, but Eley Kishimoto's offerings last night, in their collection titled 'Village Fete', were predominantly loose smocks, oversize tunics worn with bubble-hemmed skirts, and flowing, voluminous fabrics. All in eye-watering prints - a touch of leftover nu rave seemed to have influenced some of the dresses, with fabrics printed in giant chain designs in hot pink and neon green; whilst others were straight of 1970s Laura Ashley-ville (but in a cute way). The florals worked best -- everything from a wartime kind of print reminiscent of winceyette pyjamas, to flocked wallpaper styles -- as anything in neon right now just seems so wrong.

Ben de Lisi meanwhile seemed convinced that what we all want to wear is a long-sleeved all-over-sequinned horizontal rainbow striped dress, which makes me wince to type - imagine looking at the thing. There were also one too many minidresses adorned with giant sequin discs, a look last seen in Austin Powers, where it should have stayed. (I'm not this designer's biggest fan.)

But off the catwalk, and in reality, most of the colours shown so far have been bright, but flattering, and nothing perks you up after winter like a pop of colour. Remember last winter's palette of grey and navy resulted in the neon explosion? Luckily this winter is less bland, with plums and muted jewel tones, so the necessary post-winter colour explosion is similarly muted -- it doesn't need to be neon to make its point.

So although Eley Kishimoto did show those pink/green dresses, the real stand-out pieces were in chocolate brown silk, dove grey polka dots, mustard or rose pink prints, or a classic 1970s orange/chocolate/blue floral -- think your granny's tea-tray and you're close:



Looks from Eley Kishimoto S/S 2008 catwalk show (top row), and (bottom row) Ben de Lisi S/S 2008 catwalk show, both at the BFC tent at London Fashion Week.

I actually really adore the Eley Kishimoto stuff -- it's cutesy yet quirky in that slightly Luella way, I think. They really got it spot on with their show title -- it is very village fete. Those old-fashioned florals make me want to get my baking on and win a rosette (something they adorned some of the dresses with!), but there are enough modern twists to make it clothing not costume. I especially like the way they play with volume and silhouette to almost reverse-emphasise the waist: the bubble/gathered hem on most of the skirts plus the tunics that kick-flare at the waist creates an unusual apple silhouette, emphasising legs and shoulders as body con and leaving the torso uncluttered.

More updates live from London Fashion Week until Thursday; right now I'm off to John Rocha and later Basso & Brooke.

Will Success Spoil Beth Ditto?

Its hard to keep up with Beth Ditto this month. She's moved from rockin' musician to full fledged fashion icon with an editorial in the Fall/Winter issue of cutting edge British glossy Pop and an interview in the September edition of Vogue Paris, arguably the single most important fashion magazine in existence.

The Size Hero edit in Pop, styled by Katie Grand and shot by Steven Klein is as artistic and eye catching as the magazine's typical fare and features a glammed up Beth cavorting with male model Blake in the seasons choice outfits. Many specially made for Ditto just for the shoot - glamorous clothing yes but its a bit disheartening to know that the average girl will never have a shot at any of these things. I wouldn't mind a Hussien Chalayan dress in my closet, thats for sure.

The Vogue Paris interview contains a couple of very beautiful snaps and what appears to be a profile focused mainly on The Gossip's success. Though with my rather appalling command of the french language I could be entirely wrong. Eternal gratitude to anyone who can provide accurate translation.

It seems as though Beth is becoming more and more known, not just for her band but also for her status as a plus sized woman in an industry that isn't particularly known for his celebration of difference. I can't help but wonder whether the fashion press truly embraces her or if they are merely latching on to her seemingly endless cache of cool. Magazine's like Pop and Vogue Paris are known for being cutting edge so seeing Beth within their pages isn't as much of a shock but as Beth becomes more well known and ultimately more mainstream does the impact of her message get diluted? Is it less about plus sized girls and more about Beth Ditto, Rock Star?

How do you feel about the fashion world's current love affair with Beth?




Thanks to Dieselmax at tFS for scanning the lovely preview of Pop's editorial

What's In A Name? : Designer Capsules the Pros & Cons

It seems like every designer under the sun is teaming up with a mass market chain to launch a cheaper line - whether it be a limited edition capsule (Temperley and Loeffler Randall for Target) or a full fledged collection (Vera Wang for Kohls) but what does this mean for plus size girls? Designers have not been particularly eager to cater to the plus sized consumer in their personal lines so who is to say things will get any better in these new diffusion lines? Besides what's should you even look for when shopping one of these? Since were about to hit critical mass with the upcoming launches of Vera, Temperley, Cavalli for H&M and so on so forth TFFF presents a pros & cons guide to navigating the wealth of options that will present themselves this fall.

An image from Vera Wang for Kohls

PRO: Things are cheaper
CON: Things are cheaper...
Ok this is the most obvious plus sign. Designer clothes for less money. Sounds simple enough but remember that cheaper means - cheaper production values, less frills and lower fabric quality. Make no mistake about it a shirt from a diffusion line is not going to be the same quality as one from the main line. In some respects one is paying for the cache of having a designer name on their clothing. If you see anything that looks subpar your best bet is to just leave it right there in the store. I know it can be hard not get caught up in the moment (with a lot of these things the rush of full combat shopping is half the excitement) but don't buy anything you wouldn't buy if it didn't have a fancy logo or name stamped on it.

PRO: Sizes are bigger
CON: Not that much bigger
For many designers (especially the younger labels) their version of a large is a 10. Yeah you read that correctly - ten. Now this isn't the case for all designers (one of these days I'm just going to make a list of designers and the sizes they go up to) but as we all know the vast majority of the high priced labels run a bit small. In these new cheaper lines the sizing is a little larger but not enough to cater to every one. H&M's designer collections go up to about a size 14 (they went up to 16 until Karl complained, way to go Kaiser), Target's Go-International collections hit a size 13 juniors and the new Kohl's for Vera Wang cuts off at size 16. Its a start but there is still a long way to go before everyone gets to benefit from this. Of course there are exceptions to this rule and as we all know the advent of vanity sizing has turned the world on its head so take the time to try everything on if you can. You may be surprised - many of the lines tend to run large since stores would seemingly prefer to completely alter the numbers listed instead of just offering more sizes.

PRO: Things are trendy
CON: Things are trendy
If you're looking for an affordable way to bring the latest looks into your wardrobe diffusion lines are perfect. You can stock up on incredibly trendy pieces like layered knits and bubble skirts, cropped wide leg pants, etc without feeling bad about spending oodles on things that will be passe in a few seasons. However if you want classic pieces that will last then these wont be particularly useful. Even when basics are provide they typically wont be built to last. Sometimes its better to pay a little more for something that can be used over and over again.

PRO: Everyone is doing it.
CON: SERIOUSLY Everyone is doing it.
If you value not wearing the same thing as everyone else its tough to see 10 girls walking down the street in the exact same Viktor and Rolf top (can you tell that was me the day after the H&M collection last year) so be mindful of the fact that many other people will be wearing the same exact thing as you are if you buy from one of these collections.

And now a whos who of what's to be offered in the coming months with my thoughts on what's hot.


The Good Stuff: Two looks from Vera Wang, including the gold skirt of my dreams, Loeffler Randall for Target woven bag, clutch & flats & two delectable looks from Temperley for Target

- Vera Wang for Kohls: I'm going to shop this collection later this week and I cannot wait. Visit the Kohl's microsite to see most of the collection or just open up every magazine this month to see the gorgeous ads. Almost everything looks like fun but I am particularly obsessed with the gold brocade skirt. Very Proenza Schouler S/S 07, no?
VER WANG IN STORES NOW

- Temperley for Target: LOVE IT. I'm in completely non-objective love with the vast majority of this collection. My only wish is that the sizes weren't just for juniors! C'mon Target! You can do better than this! They should be going up much higher than just 13. All that aside there are some great finds, they've even gone and redone one of Temperley's signature long flowing floral dresses for this collection. TheGo International site is still selling the Libertine collection but watch that space for pieces from Temperley.

TEMPERLEY IN STORES : SEPTEMBER 15th

- Loeffler Randall for Target: An all accessories collection from the hip Brooklyn shoe duo who won the 2007 CFDA award for best accessories. Now I'm completely addicted to their main line - I think they're possibly my favorite shoe designers right now. Granted, with Target prices you can't really get the sumptuous fabrics they usually use but the designs are still attractive and you don't have to shell out $300 and up for a pair. There are also great bags, I'm especially impressed with the woven Bottega-esque hobo. Take a gander for yourself at a preview on Elle.com Since there is still awhile to go before 08 treat yourself to one of their main line shoes in the meantime. You wont be disappointed.

LOEFFLER RANDALL IN STORES EARLY 2008

- Cavalli for H&M: Either you love Cavalli or you hate it. Lately I admit to loving it - things aren't as wham bam as they used to be but they're certainly much more wearable. Lets face it, who besides J.Lo was really going to wear a neon green feathered low cut gown anywhere? Few people can pull that off or even want to for that matter. But in recent seasons we've seen a bit of refinement come to the house previously known for bold in your face sex appeal. The H&M collabo seems to follow this pattern and though were still a couple months away I can safely say that this one will be worth that massive line around 5th avenue.

CAVALLI IN STORES: NOVEMBER 07

Happy shopping! I know I cannot wait, anyone see anything that catches their eyes?

TFFF is back under the tents for Fashion Week this season so stay tuned for updates on the latest happenings. Not just for fall but also for the S/S 08 shows.

Beautifully Human: Jill Scott in Essence

R&B Soul singer Jill Scott is on the cover of this month's Essence talking about her music, personal struggles and the pressure to lose weight within the music industry.

Once I started looking for a record deal, I had a trainer. And the trainer told me that I would never sell a record if I didn’t lose weight.

Personally, I sincerely hope she told that trainer off but the very fact that anyone would even say that gives insight into how body conscious the entertainment world is. As intense as the beauty standards for fashion are its easy to sometimes forget that fashion isn't the only industry wherein this pressure exists. The music world enforces its own rules and standards for its female performers. Lately it seems as though the most important thing a singer can do is look "good". With the seemingly endless stream of disposable popstars and drum machine heavy songs more reliant on audio editing programs ProTools than singing talent looks play an increasingly important part in the marketing of music. Reading through the Jill Scott piece I couldn't help but think of this editorial from a few months ago on the importance of sexiness as a marketing tool.

She was an "amazing talent," a young singer with a wonderful voice who wrote beautiful songs. But she was no beauty, plus flat-chested and overweight to boot.

Remembering the aspiring star, music executive Jody Gerson still feels terrible about thinking: "She's never going to get signed, even though she's fabulous."

Its a shame to think just how low actual talent ranks in the scheme of things. How do you feel about stars being asked or told to lose weight in order to secure record deals? I think we can all agree that it is a reprehensible practice but how prevalent do you think it is / can a star succeed if they don't fit the typical cookie cutter?

Back to fashion, I think Jill looks amazing in her red velvet Igigi dress! Absolutely gorgeous - she seems positively regal especially posing on that chaise.

It's raining, it's pouring, it's a Monsoon

I'm very busy and important, but I just have time to tell you that as I was sprinting along Oxford Street in my horrifically high heels (sort of like a better dressed and less irritating Carrie Bradshaw - now with 100% less whimsy!), I spotted something ne'er before seen on the high street, did a double take, and nearly broke my neck. I'm so coooooooooooooool.

Said spazzmoddery was caused by seeing, writ large in hot fuschia lettering across the window of Monsoon, "Sizes 8 to 22 available in store".

!!!

Okay, it's not 'Storming of the Bastille'-level of important (and why that should pop into my head as a 'scale of importance reference' I don't know), but for a moderately expensive upscale high street chain to not just stock plus sizes, but -- gasp -- announce it, brazenly, in hot pink lettering, is kind of unusual, non? Especially since most shops, as we've learned, prefer to keep their bigger sizes online and away from sensitive customers, in case they catch fat, or something.

(See how I pulled it all together after the random Bastille reference by writing 'no' as 'non'? C'est professional fashion writing!)

In celebration of Monsoon's out-and-proud sizing policy, here's some bits and pieces from their current crop:

Clockwise: Suede baker boy hat, £25; Olive embroidered blouse, £40; Gold sequin bag, £28; Herringbone jacket, £95; Plum leather boots, £75; Lace-up shoe, £70; Sequin detail tunic top, £50.

I sort of want to have sex with the Herringbone jacket, it's so fab. Is that weird? I couldn't help but wonder...