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Too Fat For Fashion: September 2006
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Wednesday, September 27, 2006

TFFF Editorials: Its Not Easy Being In Between

Every so often Too Fat for Fashion will feature plus fashion centric editorials from our talented contributors. This week Sonya K takes on the unique perils of inbetweenie shopping.


Its Not Easy Being In Between
By Sonya K


“I tried on a pair of shorts like yours the other day”

“Oh yay! Bermudas! Did you get them?”

“Oh, god no. I would have had to go up to a size 12, and I just couldn’t do that.”

“Err … right then.”

This conversation took place between me and my friend a little while ago, back when Bermuda shorts were making a comeback and every woman and their dog had purchased a pair. The friend in question is normally an Australian size 8-10. I am an Australian 14-16. I am mostly happy at the size I am, but that conversation made me feel like a massive heffalump. It shouldn’t have, she didn’t mean any harm to me with that statement. I, of course intellectually knew that, but getting that message through to my emotions and feelings was another thing all together.

It got me thinking though. How is it that a skinny girl, is made to feel ‘fat’, simply because of a number on the label? Why is that that I, not by any means skinny, but not quite fat have so much trouble fitting into clothes? Shopping should be an enjoyable experience, full of spent money and perhaps the occasional bout of skipping (depending on the caffeine consumed). Instead, it usually consists of tears, frustration, and rage akin to the Incredible She-Hulk. Whilst green is my colour, I want to be able to change this problem.

I am definitely not belittling the truly plus sized women out there. I’ve watched what my mother and other friends have had to go through, and I can understand how extremely frustrating it can be - trying to shop for cute/sexy/nice clothes, and despairing when the clothes are mumu-esque, bedazzled, expensive, or all three. But it can be equally as frustrating shopping for clothes when you’re my size. An ‘inbetweenie’ is what some people call it. This basically means that I am too small for the plus sized stores and too big for the ‘trendy’ stores. It’s not even that I want to particularly dress in these ‘trendy’ clothes, but it would be nice to enter a cheap little shop, and be able to buy a cute top for a party, without spending an exorbitant amount of money.

Don’t even get me started on the sizing difference between stores. I can be a 12 at one, and barely fitting into an 18 in another. The other issue that is annoying is the fact that stores don’t cater to body shape. They assume that the bigger you are, the bigger your boobs butt and hips are, when a fair amount of the time, this isn’t the case. Stores should start designing to body shapes, not sizes! The worst offenders of the sizing/shape difference for me are jeans and pants. No wonder I hate shopping for them, and when I find a pair I like, that actually look good, I always buy a couple. But then those couple inevitably stretch out, loose shape, and make me look like I have major saggy bum issues.

So, what to do? How do we get around this often frustrating, tear inducing experience? Well, in a number of ways. The first of which is to shop. Oh hey, one of my favourite things to do in the world, next to sleeping and drowning myself in perfume.

Secondly, set aside an entire day to actually get a thorough look in every store. And I mean every store. Scour that baby like it’s going out of style, and then do it once more for good measure.

Thirdly, get outside your shopping comfort zone. We all end up getting stuck in a rut, shopping where we know we will find something. But, it can get boring. Therefore, that store that you would never dare/deign to enter might end up containing a virtual treasure trove of undiscovered lovelies.

Fourthly, bring along an honest friend. Whilst I prefer shopping by myself, sometimes a friend is needed for a second opinion, other than the sales assistant who may just want to be selling you those clothes.

Lastly, the only way to effect change is to make it happen. If you’re not happy with the way clothes are cut, or sizing in store, try to do something about it. Start writing to the companies, stating your problem effectively and calmly. I plan to follow my own advice by starting to do just this.

This is a small list of things that could be done in order to enrich your shopping experience. There are many, many more ways that this can happen. I would really like to hear about some other tips and advice that you guys have to make shopping become the money wasting, caffeine-induced skipping experience that should be enjoyed by all.

Saturday, September 16, 2006

New York Fashion Week S/S 07

New York Fashion Week has just ended and it was glorious. NYC week kicks off a string of Fashion Weeks around the world and showcases the best in new fashions. As a New Yorker I'm incredibly biased but I think NYC Fashion Week is the best save for Paris. You can't top Paris. Now you may be thinking "Boo! Fashion Week is just for bored socialites and rail thin models. Nothing shown on the runways is for me so why bother." But that couldn't be further from the truth. The clothes shown by designers during these weeks are what we'll be wearing come Spring. Whether they're the actual pieces from the runway or the inspired creations at our H&M's, Zaras, Targets or wherever else were shopping. True they are shown on the most lithe models on earth but fashion is for everyone who can appreciate the beauty of a fine stitch or an artful seam.

These are a few of my favorites from the past week.


1. Benhaz Sarafpour

Don't you just love that gold sequin dress! I want it so bad! I can see this looking amazing over a pair of leggings as well or tossed over skinny jeans. The pattern on the black and white dress is to die for and I love the drape on the white coat its a bit cape-esque. Such a great use of volume. That blue sheath is going to be a best seller, its just a classic shape with an incredible color and I think women are always going to gravitate towards that. This may just be Benhaz's best collection to date.



2. Zac Posen

This is all very Tom Ford for Gucci in my opinion (aren't we all just waiting for F/W 07 and Tom's return) but that's probably why I enjoyed it all so much. I love how that black dress hugs every single curve. So alluring, I can already see that being a hit on the red carpet. The suit is very YSL Le Smoking as well, always a good thing. I also think these designs flaunt curves and are sexy in a time when most of fashion is about volume and hiding the body. I could easily imagine any of these outfits on a voluptuous figure.



3. Temperley

I love Alice Temperley. Every piece in this collection is so laid back and breazy. Even the gown seems casual. I love the idea of a wide belt over a dress to create an hourglass shape. I also love the cropped leather jacket. The detailing is just gorgeous. I like that military influenced styles are heading into spring. And aren't those fedoras great. The whole hat/dress combination is very chic Parisian, reminds me of Lou Doillon. It just shows you how much accessories can alter an outfit.



4. Erin Fetherston

Another laid back collection of clothes you could wear in any situation. I love the shorts, they're so structured and the material is so nice you could wear them to work. I love the combination of trouser pants and a rather dainty gauze-like top. Its just modernizes things. And the white dress is just something out of a fairytale. I love that the jumper doesn't have a bib or an empire waist, fuller bodies can get lost in that. The sash around the mid section really defines the waist.



5. Derek Lam
Everything Derek Lam does is so effortless and practical. Nothing is overdone or contrived and that's what I love about his designs. That royal blue gown is classic Grecian goddess but he's done it in such a fresh and simply manner that it feels new. This is in part to the great styling on this show. Note how unadorned the models are. Keep it simple with the makeup and the jewelry and you come to the forefront. I also like the use of dark colors paired with white for spring. Spring clothes are always just a little too pink and frou frou for my tastes so this is a nice alternative.



6. Jenni Kayne
I was estatic when I heard Jenni Kayne would be showing in NY this year as opposed to L.A. and she did not disappoint. I love how these clothes flow over the body and look at the color! Yellow is a shade alot of people shy away from but when its done right its showstopping. I consider yellow (like red) to be a color that goes surprisingly well with alot of other colors. Try yellow with navy or grey and its amazing. I also love the blue dress with the maroon sash, another great color combination and look at how it flows, flowy dresses are such a trend this season.



7. J. Mendel

J. Mendel appeals to my inner socialite. These are party frocks for ladies who lunch and gowns for women who go to galas but in the best possible way. There's something so sophistocated about their entire oeuvre. The first grey dress is one my dream pieces, its so ethereal and perfect. I'm also in love with the ruffled cocktail dress on Lily Donaldson.



8. Y & Kei

You're never going to see an ugly Y & Kei dress. Period. Everything they do is feminine and alluring. I love the color scheme on this collection. You cannot go wrong with nuetrals but I love the subtle sheen on all of these pieces. Many of the looks were almost monochromatic but because of the texture of the fabrics they never became boring. Look at the sparkle on that black dress, it doesn't scream sequins but its got just enough to create interest. Its nice to see metallics carrying over from the last season. That silver cocktail dress is just to die for.



9. Marc Jacobs | VIDEO
Marc Jacobs is so in tune with the future its almost scary. He's not designing for this season anymore, he's designing for 10 seasons from now. There is something very futuristic about this collection but I see loads of influences a little bit of Yohji, a little bit of Chanel via Lagerfeld and some Rei Kawakubo for good measure. I love the metallics and their colors. Everything is so vivid. I'm also enjoying the softer approach to layering. I do feel these clothes will look totally different on hangers in the stores everything is styled so well its going to be interesting to see the pieces individually. Right now I'm in love with the ruffled Chanel-esque jacket, not to mention that metallic bomber jacket. Not for the faint of heart.



10. Peter Som
Peter Som makes the kind of clothes you want to wear all day every day. Look at the pattern on the second dress. Its perfect for all year, not just spring. I also like how they've used the darker shade of the pattern beneath the solid bell shaped coat. Great way to layer without making things look bulky. The blue gown is just heartstopping. I love how it moves and flows, I can see that looking astounding on anyone regardless of size. That yellow shirtdress could also be incredible with jeans. I like how his clothes can be dressed up or dressed down depending on who wears them.



Those were just a few of my favorites from the past week. What did you enjoy? Any designers whose work I've overlooked? Let me know! I look forward to the London / Paris / Milan shows.

Monday, September 11, 2006

Kate Dillon in Vogue Paris

Vogue Paris is in my opinion the world's premiere fashion magazine. They trump everyone else on the planet in terms of fresh viewpoints, daring ideas and exciting concepts. As such it is only fitting that they have embraced a plus model within their cutting edge pages. In their Tango Des Passions editorial they showcase the beauty of our favorite supermodel, Kate Dillon.
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

The editorial, show by the world renowned photographer Mario Testino is beautiful. I don't think I have ever seen a plus size model depicted in such a sexy and sensual manner. Not to mention the fact that these photos are elegant and artistic. I think this is an important editorial as it features models of different shapes together, presented as equally alluring. I'd like to see more of that in fashion magazines.

Saturday, September 9, 2006

Spanish Fashion Show vs. Skinny Models

Interesting story coming out of Spain. I think its beautiful to see women of different shapes and sizes on the runway and I love that they're trying to promote healthier body images but I'm 100% not sure if this is the right way to go about it. I think the key above all things is seeing a variety of body types on our runways not exempting one group of women because they have low BMI's but being inclusive regardless of size. I'm all about making fashion inclusive. I want to see a runway that features thin, plus, short, tall and all inbetween. What says you? I'd love to hear opinions on this.

MADRID, Spain (Sept. 9) - Spain's top fashion show has turned away a slew of models on grounds they are too skinny - an unprecedented swipe at body images blamed for encouraging eating disorders among young people.

Organizers of the pageant, known as the Pasarela Cibeles, used a mathematical formula to calculate the models' body mass index - a measure of their weight in relation to their height - and 30 percent of the women flunked, said the Association of Fashion Designers of Spain.

The association said Friday it wanted models at the show running from Sept. 18-22 to project "an image of beauty and health" and shun a gaunt, emaciated look.

The decision was made as part of a voluntary agreement with the Madrid regional government, said Jesus del Pozo, a designer who is part of the association, said Thursday.

Last year's show, also called Madrid Fashion Week, drew protests from medical associations and women's advocacy groups because some of the models were positively bone-thin.

This time the Madrid regional government decided to intervene and pressure organizers to hire fuller-figured women as role models for young girls obsessed with being thin and prone to starving themselves into sickness, said Concha Guerra, deputy finance minister of the regional administration.

Fashion shows, Guerra said, "are mirrors for many young women."

Del Pozo said this was the first time skinny models have been snubbed at a major international fashion show.

Ryan Brown, director of marketing and public relations in North America for the Elite modeling agency in New York City, agreed. "It is very unprecedented," said Brown, who has nothing to do with the Spanish show.

He welcomed the decision saying "I think it is great to promote health."

Madrid's show, which features mainly Spanish designers, is not as prestigious as catwalks in Paris or Milan but "it is not at the bottom of the pile," he said.

The impact of rejecting skinny women would have been greater at those other glitzier venues. Still, he said, "I am sure the industry is taking note."

The body mass index is a tool for doctors who study obesity. It is calculated by dividing weight in pounds by height in inches squared, and multiplying that total by 703.

If the resulting number is between 18.5 and 24.9, the person's weight is normal. Below 18.5 they are underweight. In the case of the Madrid show, organizers rejected women with indices under 18.

Brown of the Elite agency said fashion shows reflect the tastes of clothing designers, who for now prefer the Kate Moss look as opposed to the curvier dimensions of models such as Cindy Crawford in years past.

"They don't want voluptuous girls any more," he said. "It would be nice if fashion got back to that."


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