What's In A Name? : Designer Capsules the Pros & Cons

It seems like every designer under the sun is teaming up with a mass market chain to launch a cheaper line - whether it be a limited edition capsule (Temperley and Loeffler Randall for Target) or a full fledged collection (Vera Wang for Kohls) but what does this mean for plus size girls? Designers have not been particularly eager to cater to the plus sized consumer in their personal lines so who is to say things will get any better in these new diffusion lines? Besides what's should you even look for when shopping one of these? Since were about to hit critical mass with the upcoming launches of Vera, Temperley, Cavalli for H&M and so on so forth TFFF presents a pros & cons guide to navigating the wealth of options that will present themselves this fall.

An image from Vera Wang for Kohls

PRO: Things are cheaper
CON: Things are cheaper...
Ok this is the most obvious plus sign. Designer clothes for less money. Sounds simple enough but remember that cheaper means - cheaper production values, less frills and lower fabric quality. Make no mistake about it a shirt from a diffusion line is not going to be the same quality as one from the main line. In some respects one is paying for the cache of having a designer name on their clothing. If you see anything that looks subpar your best bet is to just leave it right there in the store. I know it can be hard not get caught up in the moment (with a lot of these things the rush of full combat shopping is half the excitement) but don't buy anything you wouldn't buy if it didn't have a fancy logo or name stamped on it.

PRO: Sizes are bigger
CON: Not that much bigger
For many designers (especially the younger labels) their version of a large is a 10. Yeah you read that correctly - ten. Now this isn't the case for all designers (one of these days I'm just going to make a list of designers and the sizes they go up to) but as we all know the vast majority of the high priced labels run a bit small. In these new cheaper lines the sizing is a little larger but not enough to cater to every one. H&M's designer collections go up to about a size 14 (they went up to 16 until Karl complained, way to go Kaiser), Target's Go-International collections hit a size 13 juniors and the new Kohl's for Vera Wang cuts off at size 16. Its a start but there is still a long way to go before everyone gets to benefit from this. Of course there are exceptions to this rule and as we all know the advent of vanity sizing has turned the world on its head so take the time to try everything on if you can. You may be surprised - many of the lines tend to run large since stores would seemingly prefer to completely alter the numbers listed instead of just offering more sizes.

PRO: Things are trendy
CON: Things are trendy
If you're looking for an affordable way to bring the latest looks into your wardrobe diffusion lines are perfect. You can stock up on incredibly trendy pieces like layered knits and bubble skirts, cropped wide leg pants, etc without feeling bad about spending oodles on things that will be passe in a few seasons. However if you want classic pieces that will last then these wont be particularly useful. Even when basics are provide they typically wont be built to last. Sometimes its better to pay a little more for something that can be used over and over again.

PRO: Everyone is doing it.
CON: SERIOUSLY Everyone is doing it.
If you value not wearing the same thing as everyone else its tough to see 10 girls walking down the street in the exact same Viktor and Rolf top (can you tell that was me the day after the H&M collection last year) so be mindful of the fact that many other people will be wearing the same exact thing as you are if you buy from one of these collections.

And now a whos who of what's to be offered in the coming months with my thoughts on what's hot.


The Good Stuff: Two looks from Vera Wang, including the gold skirt of my dreams, Loeffler Randall for Target woven bag, clutch & flats & two delectable looks from Temperley for Target

- Vera Wang for Kohls: I'm going to shop this collection later this week and I cannot wait. Visit the Kohl's microsite to see most of the collection or just open up every magazine this month to see the gorgeous ads. Almost everything looks like fun but I am particularly obsessed with the gold brocade skirt. Very Proenza Schouler S/S 07, no?
VER WANG IN STORES NOW

- Temperley for Target: LOVE IT. I'm in completely non-objective love with the vast majority of this collection. My only wish is that the sizes weren't just for juniors! C'mon Target! You can do better than this! They should be going up much higher than just 13. All that aside there are some great finds, they've even gone and redone one of Temperley's signature long flowing floral dresses for this collection. TheGo International site is still selling the Libertine collection but watch that space for pieces from Temperley.

TEMPERLEY IN STORES : SEPTEMBER 15th

- Loeffler Randall for Target: An all accessories collection from the hip Brooklyn shoe duo who won the 2007 CFDA award for best accessories. Now I'm completely addicted to their main line - I think they're possibly my favorite shoe designers right now. Granted, with Target prices you can't really get the sumptuous fabrics they usually use but the designs are still attractive and you don't have to shell out $300 and up for a pair. There are also great bags, I'm especially impressed with the woven Bottega-esque hobo. Take a gander for yourself at a preview on Elle.com Since there is still awhile to go before 08 treat yourself to one of their main line shoes in the meantime. You wont be disappointed.

LOEFFLER RANDALL IN STORES EARLY 2008

- Cavalli for H&M: Either you love Cavalli or you hate it. Lately I admit to loving it - things aren't as wham bam as they used to be but they're certainly much more wearable. Lets face it, who besides J.Lo was really going to wear a neon green feathered low cut gown anywhere? Few people can pull that off or even want to for that matter. But in recent seasons we've seen a bit of refinement come to the house previously known for bold in your face sex appeal. The H&M collabo seems to follow this pattern and though were still a couple months away I can safely say that this one will be worth that massive line around 5th avenue.

CAVALLI IN STORES: NOVEMBER 07

Happy shopping! I know I cannot wait, anyone see anything that catches their eyes?

TFFF is back under the tents for Fashion Week this season so stay tuned for updates on the latest happenings. Not just for fall but also for the S/S 08 shows.

Lit From Within: The Summer Glow

As much focus as there is on makeup most of the fun and attention goes towards color. Its all about the precise shade of eyeshadow, the lipstick of the moment (Peter Som for Lancôme if you must know) anything bright and bold that catches our eyes and gets us excited. Color is king - cosmetics collections are called color stories for a reason. And the right shade of lipstick/eyeshadow or blush is the cosmetic equivalent to that scene in The Wizard of Oz where Dorothy's world goes from bleak beige to glittering technicolor.

But here's the kicker - color means nothing without skin. Your skin is the canvas on which you apply your color so if its not looking good all the trendy shades in the world will not look their best.

Now since its summer everyone on earth is going to tell you to worry about blotting and stopping shine but as appealing as that may seem there is nothing natural about a completely matte face in the middle of a heatwave. Being overly powdered is just as bad as looking greasy - the goal should be a healthy glow that appears to come from within. A since every good look requires a little bit of effort here are the tools you'll need to recreate the look yourselves - along with a few of our favorite products.

1. PRIMER | NARS PRIMER SPF 20

Primer is key it sets up your whole look and makes everything nice and smooth for when you apply your makeup. I find its far better to use a primer that keeps you matte and makes your makeup last than to worry about reapplying my powder throughout the day. Also remember to use an SPF to protect yourself - an SPF guide like the one at Banana Boat can be helpful in finding just how much coverage you need.


2. CONCEALER | DIOR SKINFLASH
   Personally I despise the feel of foundation on a warm day. Its just too much for me - as such I prefer to merely use a concealer to target specific problems. I like using a pen concealer like YSL Touche Eclat or Dior's Skinflash to cover up dark circles and any other little imperfections.
   


3. POWDER | SUE DEVITT C-WEED POWDER

Loose powder is great to just even out the skintone - even when its too hot for foundation and the whole nine yards you can dust on a bit of powder in the morning to look polished. Search for a powder with light reflecting particles that brighten your complexion.


4. LUMINIZER | MAC MINERALIZE SKINFINISHES

Shimmer is a tricky thing - there is a fine line between glowing and florescent and if you have oily or combination skin it can be hard to gage just what is right. The best trick I've learned for this is to use a very light hand and a good brush. Dust your luminizer wherever light hits naturally; the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, browbones and then set with a little spritz of H2O to keep things looking natural.

MAC's Skinfinishes are the best luminizers I've tried thus far - unfortunately they're limited edition (what is with MAC and limited editions) so snap them up quickly before they're gone again for another six months!


5. BLUSH | CARGO BLUSH

And now we reach the fun part - a good blush is your best friend. It will make you appear well rested and chipper on the most grim days. Nothing screams healthy more than that "I just pinched my cheeks" flush. The right shade of blush is usually the shade your cheeks take on when you actually blush. When buying look for shades with a good amount of pigment - they'll last longer and look better. I like Cargo's blushes and NARS' as well - they both have a wide array of shades suitable for all skin tones.

Which products do you use to make your skin glow? Again I'm quite partial to those Skinfinishes - Global Glow might just be my holy grail.

Gap + Fashion Fund

Another day, another capsule collection. It seems that after the success of the limited edition H&M collections every designer on earth is rushing out to do a collaboration with an affordable store. Proenza paired up with Target, Sophia Kokosalaki worked with La Redoute and now designers from the CFDA's Fashion Fund have joined forces with the Gap to breathe fresh life into the classic white button down. The designers; Rodarte, Thakoon & Doo-Ri are each relatively new but their names will be familiar to fashion forward young ladies.


The White Shirt ala Rodarte & Doo-Ri

While I love idea of affordable, accessible design brought forth in these designer collaborations one thing that has always irked me is the sizing. Target's collections feature interesting pieces, often duplicates of runway favorites but the clothes are only offered in juniors sizes which limits the options for anyone over a size 12. As TFFF's very own Olivia can attest the very same thing is going with the UK designer capsule collections. Now while Gap's new collection will only be available up to a size 16, I am simply pleased that there will be some larger sizes offered. For a company that generally keeps all its larger sizes exclusive to its website (a practice I find fascist) this is a small step in the right direction. Sizing aside I am still intrigued by the offerings presented as these are all designers whose work I enjoy.

I'm especially interested to see what the sisters Mulleavy of Rodarte will do as they're both curvaceous girls and of all the shirts shown in the previews thiers is the one I'm most drawn to. An elegant sleeveless top is always going to come in handy no matter what and this one in particular looks simple and useful. Their intricate couture inspired style has piqued my interest from their very first collection but I do wonder what, if anything at all the Mulleavy sisters think about Gap's sizing practices. Whenever I see a designer who is plus sized themselves but doesn't offer plus sized clothing as part of their own line I can't help but scratch my head. Perhaps this is a grander topic worthy of its own post but I have always wondered about that dichotomy.

Gap's Fashion Fund Collection Launches April 17th at 100 select Gap locations.