I'm Starting To See A Pattern...

Even if you spend the rest of the year dressed in head to toe black now is the time to give in to summers wild array of prints and patterns. These aren't boring basic florals or even the Pucci-wannabe mod redux we've been seeing a lot of lately they're abstract, bold, eye-catching designs that are easy and fun to wear. Now these Celia Birtwell meets Jackson Pollock prints were all over the spring/summer runways so you can expect to see them everywhere this summer.


Masterful Missoni prints through the seasons


Prints can be tricky and I admit to being one of the most floral-phobic individuals on earth but these new school abstract florals and colorful graphic inspired prints are very user friendly. As with everything else there are tricks to wearing them.

Rules:

- Keep It Simple: I know I say that for just about every trend but they're words to live by. Too much of any good thing can take a look from trendy to tragic in an instant. Unless you're going for a mix & match look its usually best to keep it to one patterned piece per outfit. If you're doing a patterned blouse pair it with pants or a skirt in a solid color.


- Mix Master: If your feeling brave and wish to mix prints and patterns for an eclectic look remember to seek out coordinating colors. Look at the 3rd outfit in the Missoni pictures, there are two very different prints within the outfit but the colors all blend together to create a uniform look. Also keep in mind the types of patterns your mixing. Its usually best to mix opposing patterns like a floral with stripes. Too much of the same and you risk clashing.

- Look Within: When coordinating your accessories with your prints chose colors that are either within the print itself or go with everything neutrals. Granted one never wants to get too "matchy" but the easiest way to coordinate is to find colors that already a part of the print. If you're more into an eclectic look you can also mix in colors that are harmonious aka opposite each other on your good old art class color wheel. An all blue patterned shirt will look great with a pair of orange flats, trust me on this.

- Try Something New: Part of the reason prints can be so intimidating is due to the fact that there are so many bad prints out there. We've all seen the eerily reminiscent of wallpaper florals or the done to death bandana paisley patterns and frankly were too stylish for that. The best prints around right now are abstract and just a little bit retro. Look for bold patterns with an artistic quality.

- Never Mind The Bullocks: I have heard far too many people say "I can't wear prints, they'll make me look bigger" and I'm really tired of this kind of thinking. I'm not overly concerned with what makes anything look bigger or smaller instead I'd rather focus on what keeps things in proportion. If you feel your losing your shape in a giant flowing printed blouse throw on a solid belt. It balances things out and will show off curves instead of drowning them in too much material. And if you do feel self conscious wear prints on parts of your body you wish to show off. Prints draw the eyes in so use them to display your best features. Most of all don't ever say you can't wear something because of blah blah insert percieved notion here, judge each piece of clothing individually. Cut and fit are the most important things when it comes to looking good so focus on that first and foremost.


Printed Tunics: All from Anthropologie
Shoes: Bottega Veneta chain link sandals, Bottega Veneta Heeled Sandals, Fendi heels & K Jacques St. Tropez gladiator sandals available at Net-A-Porter
Bracelets: Scott Stephen, Giles & Brother, Scoop & Ben Amun

Now I've gone ahead and created four outfits each featuring prints in the form of a colorful tunic tops from Anthropologie, a store that never met a print it didn't like. I love tunics for summer because they're light , simple and go with just about anything. Throw on sneakers and you're good for a picnic, heels and you're good for an evening out. These combinations can be worn with jeans or shorts or whatever tickles your fancy. These serve simply to illustrate how versatile prints can be. Any of the accessories can be mixed and matched with the tops themselves and combined in an array of ways. Add on a great bag and a few dangling chains and your pretty much set.

Who Wears Short Shorts??

Shorts are, at least for me the single most perilous fashion item known to man. There are about ten million ways to do shorts wrong. Either they're too long, too short, too baggy, too tight, too bright or just plain wrong. Shorts are a fashion gamble and when you factor in things like dress shorts and retailers' penchant for creating new short items just in time for summer (the dreaded skort anyone) it can be hard to know just what's right let alone what's in.


Short looks at Alberta Ferretti & Adam + Eve

General rules:

Keep it simple is the best overall rule when it comes to shorts. I find solid colors are generally more appealing but if you want to do prints choose something larger and more graphic. Tiny floral prints can look too childish but large black and white print or even the preppy classic madras can be stylish with the right outfit. Stay away from overdone embellishment, the less fabric there is the simpler your shorts should be. The focus overall should be your legs, not the shorts themselves.

Most importantly experiment and try things on. Don't just say "oh I could never wear _____" make sure to at least give it a shot before you rule it out entirely. You may just surprise yourself, for the longest time I wouldn't wear white or khaki shorts and now they're one of my favorite things on earth come summer time.

Bermudas:

Bermuda shorts usually conjure images of golf shoes and long socks but they can be incredibly stylish with the right look. Something has to be said for a longer short length. I find that bermudas can look really dressy if they're done in chic material or paired with elegant accessories. Throw on some heels and a light jacket with your bermudas and you can wear them to work. Pair them with a flowy top and this seasons gladiator sandals and you have a great day outfit. Anything goes with these. That said I would avoid some of the baggier styles for bermuda shorts, look for a great cut whether you're going for a looser or form fitting pair.

Short Shorts:

Hotpants are what we call underwear thats covered in glitter. Just say no. There really ought to be a 12 step hotpants anon program during the summer for repeat offenders, I'm looking at you La Lohan. That said a good pair of shorts with a shorter length can be very appealing, if you've got great legs there is no reason why you shouldn't show them off. The main thing to watch out for is length, you never want to verge into "I left my pants at home" territory. Also keep in mind the fit, short + form fitting might be too much, short shorts with a looser fit look fresher and more modern.

Denim:

Jean shorts always make me think of that, regrettable time in middle school when I thought I could DIY all my jeans into shorts for the summer. As someone who is not particularly handy with a pair of scissors, I quickly learned that this was a mistake. Cutoffs aside denim shorts can look very casual and cute. Watch out for extraneous elements like embellishment and oversized pockets which can make your shorts look overdone or just plain tacky. Experiment with different washes just like you would with regular jeans. Just because its denim doesn't mean it has to be plain old blue.

What To Wear Them With:

And now the fun part. There are about a million ways to wear shorts but some fun ideas that are very cute and very now are:

- Romantic: Fall's long tunics move into summer when paired with shorts. Plus the longer silhouette looks great skimming over a nice pair.

- Nautical: The tried and true seafaring look is still in and white shorts go great with all those black and navy stripes.

- Preppy: Some of us never truly gave up those Lacoste polo shirts and Brooks Brother's button downs. Shorts are essential for that "I summer in the Hamptons" look. Try them with a cardigan and camisole something very Ralph Lauren.

- Elegant: Heels, structured blouse, and effortless accessories like a timeless bag and dangling earrings make for a beautiful classic outfit.

How do you like to wear your shorts once the weather gets warm? I'm all about the dressy bermudas with a good pair of wedges.

Spring Fling: Beauty Essentials

April is the cruelest month.

And not just because T. S. Eliot says so. April is the month wherein we pack up all our cable knits, stow away our jackets and wave goodbye to the trusty boots we traipsed around in all winter. As someone who is pollen allergic and floral print-phobic this is not my favorite time of year to say the least but since I'm determined to turn life's lemons into lemon sorbet I'm going to view spring as time to refresh and renew. Namely time to refresh the contents of my beauty stash in preperation for the months ahead.

For me Spring makeup is all about the natural look. Natural, not boring. I am not an advocate of taupe lipstick and dull colors but I think the best spring looks are paired down and soft; flushed cheeks, glossy lips and the slightest hints of shimmer. Less about whats trendy and more about bringing out the beauty within the wearer. As such here are a host of products guaranteed to keep you looking great even if your allergies kick in.

1. EYESHADOW | Bobbi Brown Surf & Sand Eye Palatte
   As the weather gets warmer I like to switch to soft sheer shades that shimmer and sparkle. As glam as black liquid liner looks it tends to seem overdone with springs plethora of pastels and prints. A multicolored palatte like the one from Bobbi Brown is a great way to get several coordinating shades in one neat package. The golden nuetrals can flatter every skintone and the sea-toned blues are great for when you want a more dramatic look.



2. LINER | Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier Pencil
   If you just can't let go of the smoky look but want something a little more subdued Sue Devitt Eye Intensifiers are perfect. They're quick, foolproof and they last forever. Use the lighter shimmery shades for daytime and the darker colors for evening. They make a great eyeshadow base too if your feeling experimental. My personal favorite shade is the zesty green, Bangalore.



3. LIPGLOSS | L'Oreal Color Juice
   A girly cosmetic staple perfect for all seasons but spring is damn good excuse to stock up on new shades and at under $10 a pop L'Oreal Color Juice glosses wont break your budget while you test new colors. Added bonus, the sheer texture of these glosses makes them perfect for layering over lipliner or lipstick for when you want more color oomph.



4. BODY SCRUB | Fresh Sugar Blossom Body Treatment
   I suffer from the dreaded winter legs. After months of wearing nothing but pants and jeans I am left with gams in desperate need of sunlight and exfoliation. The body scrub from Fresh gets me ready for the former by helping me out with the latter. Plus like everything from Fresh it smells delicious. I'd say that it makes exfoliation fun but there's really nothing to amusing about buffing off dead skin.



5. BRONZER | Benefit Hoola
As much as I dislike the fake-bake there is something to be said for a subtle hint of bronzer. The shade should be no more than 3 shades darker than your actual skintone if you'd like to avoid the "I just fell asleep in a tanning bed" look. Benefit Hoola looks natural and wont conjur any images of George Hamilton.



6. ULTRA RICH LOTION | Cleo Cherry Body Cream
Another winter leg remedy. Since you'll invariably be showing off more skin as it heats up now is a good time to get your skin soft and luscious. A thick rich moisturizer will always do the trick and Cleo's Cherry Body Creme is just that. It'll leave you smooth and touchable, ready for all those flirty spring dresses.



7. CREAM BLUSH | Delux Beauty Flush Stick
When I think of spring makeup, rosy cheeks come to mind automatically. Nothing is prettier than a nice natural blush and Delux Flush Sticks recreate that look perfectly. Its not "I just put on a pound of blusher" its "I just pinched my cheeks" a much better look overall in my opinion. Bonus, unlike other cream/gel blushes Delux flush sticks aren't sticky or tacky in texture.



8. MASCARA | Fresh Supernova Mascara
Just because were going understated doesn't mean we have to skimp on the drama! A great mascara is an absolute must. There isn't a single makeup look that doesn't look a little nicer with thick glossy lashes and Fresh Supernova delivers them every time.



9. THE SCENT | Les Parfums De Rosine Diabolo Rose
   If spring = florals then finding a perfume should be a simple no brainer but nothing could be further from the truth. With all the choices ranging from designer brews to celebrity concoctions (why does Paris Hilton have a perfume someone explain this to me) finding the right fragrance can be a vertiable needle in a haystack search. Especially if you're picky like me and have tried just about every one of the usual fruity florals out there only to be disappointed. Its time for something different, Les Parfumes De Rosine makes a variety of delectable scents and their latest Diabolo Rose is my pick for spring scent. The mix of peppermint, lily of the valley, bergamot, amber, peony and rose absolut is astounding and completely left of center.

I do believe a shopping trip is in order. If only to make me feel better about putting all my cardigans back into storage.

Crystal Renn for Anna Scholz S/S 07

Our girl Crystal Renn is featured in another campaign, this time for plus sized fashion label Anna Scholz's Spring/Summer 07 collection.I think she's looking great as per usual albeit a shade thinner. Can anyone ID the other model? She reminds me of a curvier Uma Thurman.



While browsing through the Anna Scholz line I found a few pieces I really liked. Its rare to see clothing designed specifically with plus sizes in mind that doesn't fall into one the two dreaded categories; dowdy or passé. For some reason designers seem to think that anyone larger than Kate Bosworth wants to wear sweatpants or worse yet velour. This line seems understand that plus size women want clothing thats just as modern and chic as what is offered to their peers. Possibly because the designer Anna Scholz is a plus sized woman herself. As innovative and influential men are in fashion nothing compares to the thoughtfulness and practicality of a female designer, across the board I think female designers create some of the most wearable clothing around simply due to the fact that they actually have to wear women's clothing. John Galliano notwithstanding most men will never really understand the unique annoyance of a dress thats hits in the wrong places or a top that squeezes the midsection. Women just have that added life experience that goes into their designs. And while not everything is my personal style its still refreshing to see that there are a few more stylish options available stateside while we wait for Elena Miro to cross the pond.

I'm particularly partial to these draped tops from the S/S collection. They look like just the sort of thing I'd pair with a blazer for work or throw on with some jeans. Very versatile and cute.




Check out the full S/S offerings at Anna Scholz.com

The Future Is Now

Fashion is by its very nature obsessed with the future. Everything is about the newest, the freshest, the latest so its no surprise that designers have begun to express this obsession literally. In the last few seasons we've seen an explosion of futuristic looks: from android chic at Balenciaga, Blade Runners at Calvin Klein and even the awe inspiring mechanical dresses at Hussein Chalayan. Chain stores like H&M are getting into the look with an ever increasing selection of metallic and mirrored pieces but how does one take this sci-fi inspired look and bring into reality? Moreover how can anyone wear that much shiny/glossy/patent and still flatter their figure?


It Came From Outer Space! Looks from : Calvin Klein, Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan, Balenciaga

Futurism Keys
- Nuetral colors: Think black, white, gold and silver this is an almost mod color scheme.

- Shine: Either in the form of patent leather, glossy plastics or sparkling metals. This look is all about the robo-gleam.

- Hard vs. Soft: A soft contrast like a knit sweater or a satin blouse keeps things from looking too harsh.

- Bold accessories: Experiment with unique shapes and wild innovations. This is your chance to go crazy with some of the seasons sleek Metropolis inspired add ons.

Futurism Hints

- Just say no to head to toe. Wearing this look from tip to top can be far too costumey. Better to pick out elements of this trend than to look like you're headed for a masked ball.

- Silver is your friend. There is no more useful color for this than silver. You can take an ordinary ensemble add on a glam silver element and its automatically just a little bit more modern and forget all your rules about mixing silver with gold. They look absolutely modern together.

- Experiment with shape. The boundaries have almost all been broken were seeing loads of cocoon and cape like shapes, why not try them out! Keep the rules of proportion in mind, if you're doing large on top, try small on the bottom and vice versa. Keep things in balance as you experiment.

- Get graphic. If you want to incorporate prints into this look its best to use classic bold black and white abstract prints. Anything too busy will overwhelm.

- Embrace your body: Its easy to look at pictures of the girls on the runway and say "this will never work for me" but where there is a will there is a way. Instead of doing head to toe long and lean replace the structured jackets with a softer more curve flattering piece. Ditch the runway approved PVC leggings for a pair of great slacks or dark denim. Its all about adapting the trend to you.


TFFF Look



Trench Jacket - Old Navy, Silk Blouse - Fendi, Sandals - Pierre Hardy, Bracelet - Lanvin, Metallic python bag - Gucci, Sunglasses Oliver Peoples


This is a modern look with hints of futurism that I think everyone can wear. You're probably not going to be accused of imitating an android if you wear this but you'll look stylish and ultimately thats more important. First off we have a great short trench jacket, I love these as they move perfectly from winter into spring with little or no effort and go with just about anything. Up next we have an elegant white blouse, pair this with classic accessories and it can be classic, pair it with trendy accessories and it can be trendy. This is your do everything blouse fail safe blouse.

Now the fun part. I've accessorized this look with the funkiest pieces I could find: a great pair of white shades, a chunky graphic bracelet, an insane python bag and a sandals straight out of 2001: A Space Odyssey. Together they form a look that is versitile and very of the minute. You can wear this with anything from jeans to those C3PO Balenciaga leggings.

TFFF Editorials: Vogue vs. Logic

TFFF welcomes the newest member of our team the divine Olivia, reporting straight from London Fashion Week, giving us the scoop on all things Brit. Here she sounds off on British Vogue's response to the skinny model debate.

Vogue vs. Logic
by Olivia

So farewell New York Fashion Week, and hello to Le Fwuh, as I am so wittily calling LFW. We kick off on Sunday with Paul Costelloe , the off-schedule kicks in on Monday, and Marc by Marc Jacobs sees us out next Friday. London has three free daily newspapers and all the national papers are based out of London, so naturally with Fashion Week around the corner the size zero debate is gearing up for round two and we are surrounded by headlines and debate.

Vogue (UK March issue) has a six-page feature on the issue, which prevaricates between admitting that the industry is deeply flawed, and pretending like everything's okay because fashion is their business, and it is a business .

On Wednesday we saw that even famous faces are not exempt from the problem. When one talks of models and eating disorders and dying from being too skinny, one thinks of the more anonymous models, ones that the fashion-obsessed might know of but Joe Public can't put a face or a name to. The average girl can't name a Luisel Ramos or an Ana Carolina Reston until they see the names in a news story on model deaths. However they can probably recognise, if not name, Natalia Vodianova, Daria Werbowy, Gemma Ward and Lily Cole because they have contracts for major perfume, beauty and high street campaigns that reach even the non-fashiony person. If 'name' models haven't the power or status to be whatever weight they care to be, what hope less powerful models? The only possible exception is Kate Moss, but she is an exception to just about every rule.

Kate will never die from being too skinny. She might die from: cocaine / Pete Doherty contracted STDs / exhaustion / overexposure / choking on her own vomit, but not from starving herself. She is by no means a healthy woman nor one with a high BMI. But she's also Kate Moss. Her nose is caving in; she lost every contract going after her nose candy parade; she is not looking good; she's phoning in her recent campaigns and yet...mo' money is not leading to mo' problems with La Moss. She's untouchable, and should any designer be fool enough to say "Katie, honey, lay off the pies would you sweets?" she could have them killed.

At a recent London College of Fashion debate chaired by Alexandra Shulman, featuring Roland Mouret and Lily Cole, the subject of "zoinks -- models sure are thin!" arose. Mouret explained that in a catwalk show, to ensure nothing distracts from the clothes, the clotheshorses have to be uniform in size and appearance. (Hence the identical hairstyles and make-up looks designed for a show.) I can understand Mouret's point, but why must that uniformity be based around thin?

There is a certain impact to be had with uniformity. Remember this?

Linda. Cindy. Naomi. Christy. Same size, same shape…supermodels. Just watching this video shows how strange and unattractive size zero really is. Viva la 1990s!



One of Vogue's arguments is that designers simply can't afford to make more than one size of each sample. Let me just dissect that for the bullshit that it is:

ONE. If you can barely afford to make samples, and are making just one of each look, why must the sample size of choice be a 2, 4, 6, 8 decision? Alberta Ferretti makes sample clothes in a UK 10, US 6. I'm fairly certain the fabric of society (and her clothes) has not been torn asunder by this and designers could go further and make 12s or 14s. (I'm talking in UK sizing here.)

TWO. If we're talking haute couture and the gown is sewn by blind seamstresses in Paris ateliers out of woven unicorn hair and gilded with the tears of orphans, perhaps you can only afford to make one.

But I've seen a lot of sample clothes. (See, stroked, coveted, contemplated stealing.) Very often, extraordinary design aside, they are ordinary. Worn by model after model after model and steam cleaned daily and flown hither and thither, within a few weeks they begin to disintegrate. They are made for two shows, a dozen shoots and a few personal appearances, not for sale.

Samples are sturdy, but -- crucially -- not precious. The finished clothes may end up costing $7,500 in the shops but the sample is not worth that money. Yes, it costs more to make two. But that cost is: (a) not twice the cost of the finished product when it becomes available to buy, because that's not how samples work, and (b) what cost is worth women's mental and physical health?

THREE. Since for most fashion houses the clothes do not make the profit -- it comes from the key-chains, the bags, the shoes, the perfumes -- losing a little money on a sample cannot reasonably make a difference. Launch a diffusion perfume and bang! money recouped.

FOUR. New designers are sponsored by enterprises like Lulu Kennedy's FashionEast or Topshop's NewGen. If corporations are prepared to pay to put on a show, they should be prepared to pay for as many sample sizes as it takes. Topshop makes a mint out of its associations with high fashion and new designers; they have the cash to splash to make larger samples. They owe it to their customers.

Vogue says: "Hollywood should ask itself about the body image it promotes and the size it insists upon; yes, magazines such as Heat are unhelpful; yes, there is a hypocrisy when newspapers moralise about the dangers of skinny models, only to print photographs of them at their skinniest, alongside purposefully unflattering pictures of celebrities who have put on weight". It goes on to point out that Vogue does not employ models who are under 16 and thus haven't reached their adult weight. In other words: look, we made a concession! And say, lookit all these other factors we can blame! Vogue rulez ok! Etc.

There is certainly more than one factor to blame, and we have all learned new ways of seeing, unconsciously or not, from magazines and television, that make certain healthy sizes look 'fat' to us, and we have to unlearn these. But aside from who to blame and why this is happening, I have another question. Not "why thin?" or "why fat?" or "who's to blame?". But this: why women? London Fashion Week begins tomorrow. Let's see if it brings any answers.

Couture S/S 07 Wrap Up

Couture season is the time of year when we put aside all our notions of clothing being functional and appreciate fashion purely as art. One may not have the inclination to wear an origami dress or the cash to pay 100K per gown but we can all appreciate the beauty and artistry that goes into creating one of these treasures. Here are a few of my favorites from the past week from the three shows I liked best. Each piece is as glamorous and magical as it should be.

1. Givenchy
I find Riccardo Tisci's vision for Givenchy to be more Cristobal Balenciaga than Hubert de Givenchy but the fact that I can't imagine Audrey Hepburn in any of these dresses is not a detriment. On the contrary I love almost everything Tisci puts on the runway because it isn't tied to nostalgia, his clothes are modern in a way that is edgy and exciting. I almost feel as though Tisci is bringing a little bit of the goth-romanticism Oliver Theyskens used to do over at Rochas but with a heightened sense of drama. Look at the acid yellows he's using. Were seeing a lot of yellow lately but usually its more subdued, these dresses just scream "notice me" but without being vulgar. There is something very other-wordly about his use of print as well. This singular abstract print (its quite aquatic, no the theme was the journey from "sailors to mermaids") adorned suits and dresses, its one of those great puzzle pieces, it makes you look closer to try and discover its secrets. I love the white to black cape as well, I do believe its the single most vampiric piece of the entire year. Quite a feat.



2. Dior
John Galliano's imagination never fails to amaze me. Every season its something wildly innovative, from the styling to the music, to the makeup a Dior show never disappoints. Who doesn't look forward to their couture offerings each year?! This S/S was no exception, the theme being M. Butterfly. Now Galliano & Co are too inventive to merely do geisha redux so instead they chose to focus on origami inspired pieces with hints of good ol' fashioned British frou frou. I loved every minute of it. The detail on these dresses is amazing. I hope and I pray that someone ::cough:: Jennifer Hudson, Kate Winslet, Cate Blanchett :: cough:: dares to wear one of these stunning creations to the Oscars. My absolute favorite of the entire collection is the red and black tiered number, its equal parts Scarlett O'Hara and Cio-Cio San.




3. Armani
I surprised myself with how much I enjoyed this Armani collection. I have always considered Armani to be more along the lines of my mothers taste than my own. The clothes are always lovely but they always seem to look better on older women. I lack the sophistication and elegance to pull off those delicate dresses and perfectly cut pantsuits. Unlike De La Renta or Chanel, both of which are sufficiently girlish enough for me to see myself in, Armani has remained elusive and aloof. This collection however seems perfect for anyone. The theme, Marakeesh meets Milan has an almost transformative effect, it makes you look refined and worldy in spite of everything else. Look how cosmopolitan the normally cute n'scruffy (I'm lookin' at you Morgane) models seem in these gowns. They're like princesses. I love how the intricate beading on the gowns calls to mind saris without ever copying them. What a beautiful tribute.



What were your favorite couture moments last week?