Old Gaurd / New Guard : Classic Dressing F/W 07

Clothing for grown ups. What a novel idea!

Across the board this season we are seeing the kind of refined elegant looks that hark back to the nonchalant, ladylike glamour perfected by women like Jacqueline Onasis and Lee Radziwill. Every where you look you there are shades of grey, chic gloves, furs, extended hemlines and other trademarks of classic American sportswear. One might say that after seasons of baby doll frocks and frou frou fashion has finally grown up. Or at the very least realized that no matter how big the youth market is the true spending power lies with the parents.

Of course with every trend or in this case movement, there are different interpretations. On the one hand we have the true master of American gentility, Oscar De La Renta who tweaks and alters his flawless formulas each year to provide us with a visions of perfect taste. And on the other hand we have the new guard led by the king of grunge himself, Marc Jacobs who oscillates wildly from unexpected trend to unexpected trend with a foundation rooted in classic sportswear.

1. Oscar De La Renta
You can't really complain about an Oscar show. Its always gorgeous, his atelier is astounding, the details are ravishing and everything looks just as luxurious as it should. This season was no exception. Everything screamed "polished" it just screamed it. My notes on this collection read Pants = Kate Hepburn, Dresses = Audrey Hepburn and I think that sums it up nicely. These are classic clothes that bring out the star within. There is no gimmick save the idea that you'll look glamorous without ever being fussy. Look how unadorned the styling is. No poufy hair, no bling, no extreme makeup. just some simple gold necklaces and a few clutches. Perfection. There may have been very little in excessive adornment but the details more than made up for it. Fur and sequins were everywhere as well as bold flashes of color like the hot pink jersey dress and royal blue floral print number. Check out the gorgeous detailing on the cowl neckline of gown Vlada is in, I just love how it swoops over her shoulder for that perfect drape and the print itself is so bold, so rich that it practically leaps off the dress. It was unexpected much like the the subtle metallic jacket over the evening gown look that struck me as an almost Ralph Lauren-esque touch, very Hamptons. Both practical and impractical at the same time. Say what you will about his clothing but there is something remarkable about his consistency. Best of all Oscar goes up to size 20 and you know I love that.







2. Marc Jacobs
I love when Marc does classic. As fun as it is to see his technicolor metallic jackets and mod acid toned dresses, there is something much more intriguing (at least to me) about the times when he keeps it simple. My all time favorite Marc moment would have to be his Secretary inspired collection way back in F/W 04. It was everything a collection should be; inspired, innovative, chic and most of all wearable. There wasn't a single piece in that collection I didn't want in my closet. I'm feeling that credit card breaking urge once more with this collection. What's not to love? Once again Marc is taking classic elements; the oxford shoes, dainty cardigans, over the knee skirts and he's making them his own. This time around the ideas are very 1920s/30s I see hints of Chanel (Coco, not Karl) and touches of Art Deco. I love the oversized circles on the leather belts and the dramatic edges on the collars of the shirts. Unique little touches that let you know its Marc. For me the coup de grace was the burgundy cocktail dress on Shalom Harlow. Its like something out a dream; the color, the draping, the gathering it all works And I can't talk about this collection without mentioning the accessories. Who would have ever thought we'd see so many beautiful classic hat shapes again? These are brilliant. As trendy as these hats will no doubt become there is something adorably grandma about them. Each season the MJ team really out does themselves in terms of accessories. Personally, I can't wait to get my hands on the bags. The clutches and shoulder bags are to die for!