A Model Perspective : Natalia Vodianova

I have always loved Natalia Vodianova. From the moment she came on the scene she's been one of my favorite models. Its hard not to appreciate a face as hauntingly beautiful as hers and over the years I've followed her work be it the ads for Calvin Klein or her editorials in everything from Vogue Paris to W. She has always stood out amidst the crowd and has come across as intelligent and articulate, whether she's speaking about her charity work or the remarkable transition from fruit stand sales girl to one of the worlds most prominent faces. It is always nice to know that someone is more than just a pretty face, particularly in an industry wherein pretty faces abound.


My all time favorite shots of Natalia, pregnant and absolutely glowing

This week Natalia spoke out as part of a CFDA panel on super thin models. She talked about her personal struggles with food and body image as a model as well as the pressures to remain thin, particularly after giving birth to her son.

""At 19 and 117 pounds I gave birth to my son Lucas" Two weeks later Natalia was back on the runway" My weight fell to 106 pounds. I was nervous, oversensitive and I had thinning hair. I wasn't even aware I was unhealthy. I didn't know there was something wrong with me. I thought I was just doing my job,"

...

Vodianova explained how growing up in Russia, she viewed food as a necessity.
"But then I arrived in Paris as a model, and my relationship with food changed. Conversations with other models revolved around diets and going to the gym. It had never occurred to me to think of food in this way. I began to pay attention and compare myself to other models.
"It happened to me without me realizing it."
...

She regained her health with the help of supportive friends, but her agency told her that her weight gain of 9lbs was being criticised by designers. "I was lucky enough to be very much in demand, so I could ignore the criticisms. But if I had not been in such a fortunate position, that could have affected me badly, just when I was getting better," she said.

...

"The next season, I got healthy again, but when I returned to work, my weight was questioned," she said. "Some fashion houses called my agency complaining that I was two centimeters over [in measurements]. I was extremely upset since I felt very healthy and good about myself. I defended myself, saying it was crazy to consider measurements like 33-27-34 to be normal and not to expect some change.

...

"Most of these girls come from poor backgrounds, they are young, they are very lonely and they are trying to help their families. They will do anything to keep living this dream."

She said most models were "normal girls" who developed issues around food because of industry pressures.



9 pounds. You gain 9 pounds on a frame that is already underweight and people are calling your agency to complain. It boggles the mind. Name one other industry wherein this type of behavior is considered acceptable. I am so glad Natalia spoke out on this. Its refreshing given that in just about every other interview about this CFDA conference someone is pushing the blame on someone else. Be it designers blaming agencies, agencies blaming parents and parents scratching their heads back in Moscow, Malawi or Michigan thinking "Um. We haven't even gotten to see our daughters in months." Its about time someone spoke up especially given that girls are dying just to fit into idiotic sample sizes. Its high time something was done about it.

Old Gaurd / New Guard : Classic Dressing F/W 07

Clothing for grown ups. What a novel idea!

Across the board this season we are seeing the kind of refined elegant looks that hark back to the nonchalant, ladylike glamour perfected by women like Jacqueline Onasis and Lee Radziwill. Every where you look you there are shades of grey, chic gloves, furs, extended hemlines and other trademarks of classic American sportswear. One might say that after seasons of baby doll frocks and frou frou fashion has finally grown up. Or at the very least realized that no matter how big the youth market is the true spending power lies with the parents.

Of course with every trend or in this case movement, there are different interpretations. On the one hand we have the true master of American gentility, Oscar De La Renta who tweaks and alters his flawless formulas each year to provide us with a visions of perfect taste. And on the other hand we have the new guard led by the king of grunge himself, Marc Jacobs who oscillates wildly from unexpected trend to unexpected trend with a foundation rooted in classic sportswear.

1. Oscar De La Renta
You can't really complain about an Oscar show. Its always gorgeous, his atelier is astounding, the details are ravishing and everything looks just as luxurious as it should. This season was no exception. Everything screamed "polished" it just screamed it. My notes on this collection read Pants = Kate Hepburn, Dresses = Audrey Hepburn and I think that sums it up nicely. These are classic clothes that bring out the star within. There is no gimmick save the idea that you'll look glamorous without ever being fussy. Look how unadorned the styling is. No poufy hair, no bling, no extreme makeup. just some simple gold necklaces and a few clutches. Perfection. There may have been very little in excessive adornment but the details more than made up for it. Fur and sequins were everywhere as well as bold flashes of color like the hot pink jersey dress and royal blue floral print number. Check out the gorgeous detailing on the cowl neckline of gown Vlada is in, I just love how it swoops over her shoulder for that perfect drape and the print itself is so bold, so rich that it practically leaps off the dress. It was unexpected much like the the subtle metallic jacket over the evening gown look that struck me as an almost Ralph Lauren-esque touch, very Hamptons. Both practical and impractical at the same time. Say what you will about his clothing but there is something remarkable about his consistency. Best of all Oscar goes up to size 20 and you know I love that.







2. Marc Jacobs
I love when Marc does classic. As fun as it is to see his technicolor metallic jackets and mod acid toned dresses, there is something much more intriguing (at least to me) about the times when he keeps it simple. My all time favorite Marc moment would have to be his Secretary inspired collection way back in F/W 04. It was everything a collection should be; inspired, innovative, chic and most of all wearable. There wasn't a single piece in that collection I didn't want in my closet. I'm feeling that credit card breaking urge once more with this collection. What's not to love? Once again Marc is taking classic elements; the oxford shoes, dainty cardigans, over the knee skirts and he's making them his own. This time around the ideas are very 1920s/30s I see hints of Chanel (Coco, not Karl) and touches of Art Deco. I love the oversized circles on the leather belts and the dramatic edges on the collars of the shirts. Unique little touches that let you know its Marc. For me the coup de grace was the burgundy cocktail dress on Shalom Harlow. Its like something out a dream; the color, the draping, the gathering it all works And I can't talk about this collection without mentioning the accessories. Who would have ever thought we'd see so many beautiful classic hat shapes again? These are brilliant. As trendy as these hats will no doubt become there is something adorably grandma about them. Each season the MJ team really out does themselves in terms of accessories. Personally, I can't wait to get my hands on the bags. The clutches and shoulder bags are to die for!

Too Fat For Fashion Week?

Sketches from: Max Azria, Chris Han, Jil Stuart
All week lil ol' Miss J has been under the tents at NYC's very own Mercedes-Benz fashion week. Look for exciting coverage of this event coming up very very soon. Along with tips on how to adapt this seasons hottest new trends to your body! In the mean time check out some of the inspiration behind the collections along with designer sketches at Style.com

Couture S/S 07 Wrap Up

Couture season is the time of year when we put aside all our notions of clothing being functional and appreciate fashion purely as art. One may not have the inclination to wear an origami dress or the cash to pay 100K per gown but we can all appreciate the beauty and artistry that goes into creating one of these treasures. Here are a few of my favorites from the past week from the three shows I liked best. Each piece is as glamorous and magical as it should be.

1. Givenchy
I find Riccardo Tisci's vision for Givenchy to be more Cristobal Balenciaga than Hubert de Givenchy but the fact that I can't imagine Audrey Hepburn in any of these dresses is not a detriment. On the contrary I love almost everything Tisci puts on the runway because it isn't tied to nostalgia, his clothes are modern in a way that is edgy and exciting. I almost feel as though Tisci is bringing a little bit of the goth-romanticism Oliver Theyskens used to do over at Rochas but with a heightened sense of drama. Look at the acid yellows he's using. Were seeing a lot of yellow lately but usually its more subdued, these dresses just scream "notice me" but without being vulgar. There is something very other-wordly about his use of print as well. This singular abstract print (its quite aquatic, no the theme was the journey from "sailors to mermaids") adorned suits and dresses, its one of those great puzzle pieces, it makes you look closer to try and discover its secrets. I love the white to black cape as well, I do believe its the single most vampiric piece of the entire year. Quite a feat.



2. Dior
John Galliano's imagination never fails to amaze me. Every season its something wildly innovative, from the styling to the music, to the makeup a Dior show never disappoints. Who doesn't look forward to their couture offerings each year?! This S/S was no exception, the theme being M. Butterfly. Now Galliano & Co are too inventive to merely do geisha redux so instead they chose to focus on origami inspired pieces with hints of good ol' fashioned British frou frou. I loved every minute of it. The detail on these dresses is amazing. I hope and I pray that someone ::cough:: Jennifer Hudson, Kate Winslet, Cate Blanchett :: cough:: dares to wear one of these stunning creations to the Oscars. My absolute favorite of the entire collection is the red and black tiered number, its equal parts Scarlett O'Hara and Cio-Cio San.




3. Armani
I surprised myself with how much I enjoyed this Armani collection. I have always considered Armani to be more along the lines of my mothers taste than my own. The clothes are always lovely but they always seem to look better on older women. I lack the sophistication and elegance to pull off those delicate dresses and perfectly cut pantsuits. Unlike De La Renta or Chanel, both of which are sufficiently girlish enough for me to see myself in, Armani has remained elusive and aloof. This collection however seems perfect for anyone. The theme, Marakeesh meets Milan has an almost transformative effect, it makes you look refined and worldy in spite of everything else. Look how cosmopolitan the normally cute n'scruffy (I'm lookin' at you Morgane) models seem in these gowns. They're like princesses. I love how the intricate beading on the gowns calls to mind saris without ever copying them. What a beautiful tribute.



What were your favorite couture moments last week?

New Model Regulations

NEW YORK — The American fashion industry says it wants its models to be healthy, not anorexic, not bulimic and not chain-smokers. And to help models achieve that, the Council of
Fashion Designers of America on Friday released a list of recommendations as part of a new health initiative.

The panel that formulated the guidelines included CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, nutritionist Joy Bauer, modeling agent Louis Chaban, fitness trainer David Kirsch and Dr. Susan Ice, vice president and medical director of Philadelphia's Renfrew Center, which is dedicated to eating disorders.

The guidelines were issued three weeks before designers start showcasing their fall collections during New York's Fashion Week, which starts Feb. 2.

The guidelines are only suggestions and not binding for the industry

They include:

- Keep models under 16 off the runway and don't allow models under 18 to work at fittings or photo shoots past midnight.

- Educate those in the industry to identify the early warning signs of eating disorders.

- Require models identified as having an eating disorder to receive professional help and only allow those models to continue with approval from that professional.

- Develop workshops on the causes and effects of eating disorders, and raise awareness of the effects of smoking and tobacco-related disease.

- During fashion shows, provide healthy meals and snacks, while prohibiting smoking and alcohol.

Full Article

My question is: Will these suggestions actually do anything? Its fine and dandy to provide healthy meals and snacks but how can any of this really be enforced? I'm all for promoting a healthier lifestyle for those girls that do need help but I think its going to take a bit more than a couple of no smoking signs and Costco fruit platter to change an entire industry.

Plus-Size Streetstyle Resources

Sometimes its nice to see clothing worn by real people out in the real world. Seeing things in stores and on celebs/models is nice but nothing compares to seeing actual people wearing the outfits, there is just something a little bit more personal about seeing how normal folk put together their clothes, it can be quite the catalyst for creativity. I can't tell you how many times I've seen someone wearing something on the street who has influenced me. A constant stream of impressive street style is one of the great perks of city life but not everyone lives in NY/Paris/Milan/Tokyo/Helsinki, etc. and sometimes it can be hard to find images of people outside of the glossy pages of a magazine.

As such I've put together a list of my favorite streetstyle destinations on the web with special love for those that show women & men of different sizes.


Wardrobe Remix, The Sartorialist, HelLooks

The Fashion Spot Plus Size Streetstyle Thread: The Fashion Spot knows streetstyle, they have a whole subforum dedicated to just about every kind of streetstyle around the world from scene kids to couture dandys they have got it covered. The Plus Size thread is devoted entirely to girls and boys with curves and showcases the best of fashion on bodies ranging from small to large.

Fatshionista Flickr: The Fatshionista Flickr is the all photo version of its Livejournal cousin Fatshionista LJ. The members vary in styles and size so whatever "look" you prefer from preppy to punk it is here.

Wardrobe Remix: With over two thousand members there is something for everyone. All the latest trends are here and before they even have a chance to become trends. Members come in all sizes male and female and the clothing commmentary lets you know just where they found their coveted items.

Hel Looks: Helsinki is clearly the most fashionable place on earth. HelLooks has some of the most interesting fashion combinations I have ever encountered all in one place.

The Sartorialist: I don't think you can do a streetstyle post without mentioning The Sartorialist. He's the undisputed king of the genre and on his site you will see people of every age, gender, race and size dressed to the nines. His eye for fashion in incredible, whether he's making note of unexpected pocket square folding techniques or covering the latest store opening, it is always entertaining.

What are your favorite streetstyle websites / resources?

Crystal Renn in Harpers Bazaar

It appears our girl Crystal has landed the cover of Harpers Bazaar Russia! This is a huge thing as I don't think I have seen a plus sized model on the cover of a major international fashion magazine since Sophie Dahl way back when. To think I was just bemoaning Harper's Bazaar US's endless stream of dull celebrity covers on The Fashion Spot. Glenda Bailey and co. should take a Iesson from their Russian counterparts. I think this cover is stunning. I love that fierce look in her eyes. That is what we call attitude ladies and gentlemen!!



I am currently on the look out for a magazine shop carrying this treasure in New York so I can share the editorial with everyone but enjoy the cover and a stunning editorial with Crystal shot by the reknowned Ellen Von Unwerth for Above Magazine.



I love this edit because its a straight size model and a plus model together and its not shown as being abnormal or somehow astonishing. Its not "OMG! Look she is thin! OMG! She ISNT!", its "Look at these two gorgeous girls in Gaultier." I'd love to see more of that in fashion.